by Jim Elder jimelder@wyoming.com
There are no restaurants anywhere near the Dee Wright lookout, but a push on the “raise” button made Al into a cozy cafe. Our sunset diversion and a leisurely dinner put us into Sisters after dark. When we asked the lady at the all-night gas station where we might park, she looked at the camper, smiled, and said “Right here. You won’t be in the way.” She then offered us the use of the bathrooms. We explained that we were self-contained and self-sufficient. She came out to watch us run up the top, and wished us a pleasant sleep.
From Sisters, Oregon, there are several ways to get to our home base in Jackson’s Hole, Wyoming. Each time we travel to and from the Pacific coast, or to and from anywhere, we try to take a different route, to see new country and meet new people. Central and eastern Oregon offer three choices: Interstate 84, US 26, and US 20. All three options offer big views of big country, rolling hills, high desert, and good roads. This time, we pointed Al eastward on US 20.
Bend was once a quiet ranching and recreation town, but it has now grown to some 20,000, and acquired the malls, fast-food joints, and national chain outlets that make otherwise unique entities into “Anytown, USA.” We motored on through Brothers and stopped in Hampton for coffee. The one cafe had never heard of Starbucks or even espresso, but the down-home no-pretensions coffee was good. Our arrival swelled the population by 20%.
Hampton does get other population surges, when rockhounds stop for gas, water, and supplies. The Glass Buttes, 9 miles to the east, are perhaps the richest obsidian digs in the country. Native Americans discovered this treasure centuries ago, and made tools for use and trade. Oregon obsidian has been found in archeological sites as far east as Ohio. In addition to the traditional black obsidian, one can find gold, silver, red, brown, rainbow, and even fire obsidian.
Drewsey is two miles north of US 26, and worth mentioning mostly because it was once called “Gouge Eye,” after a frontier social custom sometimes observed in dispute arbitration. When all the disagreements were settled, the town was renamed Drewsey, after a local rancher’s daughter.
The road generally follows the Malhuer River east into Idaho, and to the Snake River. Malhuer is French for “unlucky” or “unfortunate.” In 1826 a trapping party left a large cache of furs there, and later returned to find them stolen. More accurately, they did not find them. In any language, it was a bad fur day. This country can also be a bad wind day for large RV’s. Gusty sidewinds are common anywhere from Bend into Idaho and to the Wyoming border.
Once into Idaho, the west-east choices are limited by the north-south mountains. Two Interstates, I 90 up north and I 84 in the south, offer easy travel. US 12, from Lewiston, Idaho, to Lolo, Montana, is perhaps the most scenic, as it follows the Clearwater, Selway, and Lochsa Rivers and crosses Lolo Pass. Idaho 21, 75, and US 93 will get you through the Sawtooth Range, slowly but scenicly. This time we chose US 20 and 26, leaving I 84 at Mountain Home.
This route passes through a hundred miles of lava beds, and includes Craters of the Moon National Monument. A good campground, interesting roads and more interesting trails make this a rewarding stop. We hiked along pathways well-marked with interpretive signs, and came away with a deeper understanding of what happens deep in the earth, and sometimes out onto the surface.
Just as well we parked Al and got some exercise. The next day the “stable horse” syndrome hit us. We drove non-stop through eastern Idaho, over Teton Pass, and down into Jackson’s Hole. Home at last, if only to clean out the mailbox, do a load of laundry, restock the fridge and cupboards, pack our Habitat tools, cameras, and everything else for the next two months on the road. But if Al can, we can.
Driving down the Washington and Oregon coast on US 101 is not a good way to start a cross-continent journey. The scenery is so spectacular that we kept slowing down, then stopping often to look, or shoot a picture. Rugged sea cliffs, surf, a cozy campground near Beaver, sea lions, and an inviting cafe—so much for any schedule.
But perhaps that’s actually the best way to start a two-month adventure. “Hurry people” should not drive. Take a plane, stay in a chain hotel, and fly home. That’s travel for some. Not for Al. The Washington and Oregon coast roads reminded us that travel is more than schedules and speed records. We have, in the past, too often driven late and left early.
Campers Cove Campground on US 101 was clean, friendly, and modestly priced. We stopped in time for a relaxed dinner, and in time to visit with the owners and fellow campers. The next morning, coffee break was at a nameless non-chain cafe in Yachats. They were having a name contest, so we suggested “Windows” because the building had many windows in a variety of shapes, some with ocean views. If we win, we get a free meal, but have to drive back to Yachats to collect.
Now properly attitude-adjusted to a trip instead of a dash, we took Highway 126 to Eugene and McKenzie Bridge and 242 over McKenzie Pass. The twisty forest road provided a much more interesting crossing of the Cascades than the normal Interstate routes. The four-lanes might be a better choice for big motorhomes or heavy trailers. More agile RVs enjoy freedom of choice, and a pickup camper is as agile as the pickup.
